Service with a smile at Towson's Sushi Hana.

by ROBIN TUNNICLIFF REID
     Towson is awash in fish. And ginger and wasabi. Walk in almost any direction from the traffic circle on Joppa Road, and you’ll find a sushi restaurant–the way you used to find a Chinese or Italian place.

     How did Towson come to be the Baltimore area’s sushi district? One might as well ask how Mount Washington became the city’s salon zone or why that stretch of Howard Street became Antique Row. These are just historical mysteries on the order of a zen koan.

    But is there much of a difference among these suburban sushi places? After taking advantage of the Baltimore County Tourism Office’s recent tour of Towson sushi joints, and sampling the wares at four of them, my conclusion is. . .

     ….well, I still don’t have a favorite. Choosing one over the other really depends on your mood.

     Want to dine in a slightly refined and formal atmosphere (and have the option to get Chinese food as well)? Go to the Orient on York Road across from the public library.

     How about something distinctively Japanese, complete with rice paper screens and koi pond? Sushi Hana at 6 E. Pennslvania Ave. is perfect.

     Lively? Then head to West Pennsylvania Avenue to either Kyodai and San Sushi Too; Kyodai sends the sushi around the bar on a metal conveyor belt, and Sans is attached to “B Lounge,” a nightclub and dance spot.

Pretty presentation at Sushi Hana.

     Atmo aside, the food at all four doesn’t differ dramatically or disappoint.

     San Sushi serves the biggest potions and seems to offer the most variety; for example, San offers four takes on the California roll instead of one. Sushi Hana got the most points for presentation. Rectangular glass plates make the food almost sparkle, and garnishes of artfully carved lemons are almost too pretty to use. Kyodai’s conveyor-belt style works well if you’re in a hurry; just pluck the dish you like off (the dish’s color determines the price).

     Speaking of price, well, that’s where some variation enters the picture. Using the beginner’s sushi standby of California roll again, Kyodai charges $2.50 for a roll of four pieces. Hana and Orient charge $4 and $4.35 respectively for a six-piece roll. San Sushi’s versions range from $3.75 for a California with “crabstick” (artificial crab meat) only to $6.50 for one with avocado, crabmeat, and roe.

Guardian of the restrooms at Sushi Hana.

LISTINGS:
* The Orient, 319 York Road, 410-296-9000; open for lunch and dinner daily (www.thorientrestaurant.com)
* Sushi Hana, 6 E. Pennsylvania Ave., 410-823-0372 and 1; open daily for lunch and dinner (www.sushihanabaltimore.com)
* Kyodai, Towson Commons, 1 W. Pennsylvania Ave., 410-339-7500; open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner and Tuesday through Friday for lunch also.
* San Sushi Too, 10 W. Pennsylvania Ave., 410-825-0907 and 0908; open daily for lunch and dinner.