Blue Hill Tavern is an oasis during the hot days of a Baltimore summer: the high ceilings, the mainly-blue interior, the minimalist décor and the waterfalls behind the bar are instantly welcoming.

As it happens, the two men chiefly responsible for this harmonious space are good friends. Co-owners Brett Lockard, executive chef, and Mel Carter, general manager, have known each other since they attended the CIA. (No, not that one: the Culinary Institute of America.)

The concept of the casual/formal eatery with classic/cutting edge menu had been the subject of many conversations while each pursued other culinary careers.

Lockard worked for Chef Francisco Antonucci at Antonucci’s and the much-written-about Remi, both restaurants in Manhattan. Just prior to opening Blue Hill, Lockard served as the executive chef of New Market Bistro in Camp Hill Pa.

Carter has managed various restaurants including Ruth’s Chris Steak House, and has been manager/co-owner of others. At Blue Hill, Carter is in charge of the wine, as well as the front of the house.

Here in Baltimore, the two friends’ hard work and intentionality has clearly paid off.

When I asked Lockard why they chose the Brewers Hill location, he said the energy at this high spot in trendy Canton matched their own.

“We wanted to make a commitment and when we saw this building and realized its potential we knew it was right for
us,” he said. “The up-and-coming neighborhood suits our concept of something for everyone.”

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Blue Hill Tavern
938 South Conkling Street
Tel: 443 388 9363
Complimentary Valet Parking
Lunch Monday – Friday 11:30 – 2:30
Dinner Monday –Thursday 5:00 – 10:00 pm
Friday and Saturday 5:00 – 11:00pm
Sunday 4:00 – 9:00 pm
Bar is open every day from 4:00 pm until 2:00 pm
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At the Blue Hill Tavern, the menu offers among this season’s entrees, the Tavern Burger, made with Kobe beef, aged Tillamook cheddar, Applewood smoked bacon, and crisp fried onions on a brioche, with spiced ketchup and fresh cut fries for $13 and a Chateaubriand for Two for $52.

At a recent dinner, some of our group had the burger and thought it better than expected. One of us enjoyed the Black Cod with spicy soba noodles with shrimp and shitake mushrooms, which I am told is a customer favorite. I had a taste and will order it next. The sous vide Lamb was cooked perfectly and to my taste, with a touch of garlic au jus, accompanied by potato au gratin and haricot vert .

I found the goat cheese in the goat cheese and herb crust too overpowering and competed in taste and texture with the lamb.

The crab cakes here are made of large chunks of crabmeat and very little binder; they are very light and well complemented by the corn, caper and potato hash. The current vegetarian entrée is Mushroom Wellington, which is an en croute presentation of various mushrooms, feta cheese, and spinach. Besides the lamb, there are several other excellent sous vide items on the menu, a cooking technique still not widely available in Baltimore.

Sous vide, (under vacuum) is a slow-cooking method in which the food is placed in a food-safe plastic bag and then vacuum-sealed. It is then submerged in a sous vide cooker and the ingredients in the sealed bag are cooked at a constant low temperature, for a longer cooking time than it would otherwise. It will arrive at the same internal temperature as food cooked differently, but it intensifies the flavor and pretty much assures consistency. Sometimes, the vacuum process is used alone, as with the watermelon slice in B;ue Hill’s watermelon salad. The vacuum compression intensifies the color and taste of the watermelon, which is refrigerated after it is sealed. The chilled melon is a base for a spread of walnut chutney micro-greens and a very creamy local chevre. It is served as an appetizer salad, but I think it might do just as well as a palate refresher after an entrée.

The appetizers and sides (which can also be ordered as small plates, to assemble a meal) range from simple and expected to complex and savory. Easy for a group to share are the crostini and spreads, fried guacamole, and mussels.

My favorite appetizer is the Octopus, which the day I had it was served with braised trevise, a lettuce that resembles radicchio.

Pastry Chef, Bettina Clair Perry studied desserts and artisan breads as a culinary specialty and comes to Baltimore from Napa Valley by way of Seattle. Bettina joined the Blue Hill staff just in the nick of time. She signed on just before the restaurant opened and has been there ever since. Her concept harmonizes with the rest of the menu. Her pastry work uses primarily French technique, making everything from scratch and using only top quality ingredients.

Most of the basic flavors are recurring dessert ingredients, and yet the combinations and textures give most of the sweet dishes a contemporary feel. You feel that attention is being paid to the most familiar ingredients. The Milk Chocolate Pudding Cup, for example, has layers of lime mousse, dark chocolate caramel gelee, lime curd and malted ice cream topped by a chocolate macaroon sandwich cookie. There is coconut cream pie with a taste of almond custard and raspberry gelee.

One of the house favorites is the Brioche Bread Pudding, topped with sous vide apple slices, caramel and vanilla ice cream. My favorite, though, is the Mango Bomb, composed of a mango semifreddo, mango sorbet, mango compote a piece of sesame cake, topped with a small sesame toile. A drizzle of spicy pepper coulee circles the plate. If this doesn’t give new meaning to playing with your food I don’t know what does.

The menu changes with the seasons and availability. There are always constants and four or five new dishes each menu change. If you want to have the chef’s table you can order from the menu or work with Chef Brett to develop a set menu of five to ten courses. Blue Hill is host to many group events and, with 48 hours notice, Chef Perry will make an event cake to order.

There are two dining floor and several outdoor spaces, which at night with the building lights on, make downtown Baltimore look charming. The restaurant seats 180 with an additional 50 possible in outside areas. There is a bar on each floor and a service staff of 40 to 50 with 15 to 20 people in the modernly equipped kitchen. Service is smooth and knowledgeable.

There is an extensive wine and beer list and a variety of specialty cocktails as well whiskeys, cognacs and dessert wines. Blue Hill does not intend for you to eat and run. When this much attention is paid to detail, it makes you feel that you have been “out” for lunch or dinner. After all, we eat at restaurants not only for the food and drink, for which we have high expectations, but for the attendant pleasures.

Blue Hill is one of the most modern restaurants I have eaten at in Baltimore and that may not be everyone’s aesthetic, but I find it refreshing and inviting.