Our steadfast publisher called me after a recent trip to Florida and said, “My mom sent you a big bag of kumquats from her tree. Do you want them?”

Of course! And with thanks to mom, who knows a good thing when she sees it, I’d like to share my kumquat marmalade recipe.

Kumquats originated in China and their anglicized name comes from the Cantonese “Kam Kwat.” Almost everyone will classify them as citrus fruit. But others disagree, so any information is welcome. They thrive in the same climate as oranges, and though I would never have indulged in such an abundance, they can frequently be found locally from autumn through spring at Whole Foods, Eddies and Wegmans.

This marmalade is a bit labor-intensive, so if you are not up for it, cut them up and add them to whatever chutneys and sauces that you do make.

You can of course, eat them as they are.

A quick bite through the sweet rind and then the tangy center, and  you will realize this is Nature’s version of Sour Patch candies. The entire fruit is edible, even though this recipes calls for separating its parts.
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KUMQUAT MARMALADE, SCENTED WITH VANILLA BEAN

(NOTE: This is a two-part process and can be started in the morning and finished in the evening. Or started in the evening and finished in the morning. The vanilla bean is optional.)

Ingredients
1½ pounds washed kumquats (stem removed)
3 cups of granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 cups water

Method

Have 2 non-reactive bowls and a sharp knife ready. Also needed: food-grade cheesecloth and a rubber band, as well as  a good quality candy thermometer.

1- Quarter the Kumquats lengthwise and place in a bowl. With a sharp paring knife, carefully trim the seeds and white membrane from the center of each fruit. Save these in the second bowl. It is in the seeds and pith that the pectin resides.

2- When you have trimmed all the fruit, measure or weigh the sections and return them to the bowl with an equal amount of sugar by weight or volume. Stir, cover with plastic film and refrigerate for 6 to 10 hours. Stir occasionally.

3- Cut a large square of 4-fold cheesecloth and place the seeds and white membrane in the middle. Wrap into a ball and secure with a rubber band.

4- Place 1½ cups of cold water in a bowl and submerge the cheesecloth packet in it. Refrigerate.

5- After several hours remove both bowls from the refrigerator. Place the cheesecloth packet and the water it was soaking in in saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to simmer, lower heat and simmer 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool in pan.

6- Coarsely chop the kumquats by hand or with the coarse blade of a food processer. Result should still be chunky. Scrape vanilla seeds into the mixture and add ½ teaspoon vanilla extract. Stir. Measure the mixture. Mine came to 3 cups.

7- Gently squeeze the cheesecloth packet into the water it simmered in. Use a butter knife to gently scrape any gelatin that adheres to the cloth into the liquid.

8- Pour liquid into measuring container and add water to reach 3 cups. (Or an equal amount to your kumquat sugar mixture)

9- Put all the ingredients in a heavy flat-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a slow boil. Watch and stir consistently. Lower flame and simmer for about 30 minutes until temperature reaches 220°.

I did not actually preserve this small batch. It yields approximately three eight-ounce jars, which need to be refrigerated as soon as they have cooled a bit.

Since I kept one and gave two away, I was satisfied that jars and lids taken immediately from the dishwasher or boiled in a stock pot for a few minutes were good enough for the job. I fill the jars immediately, remove the marmalade from the stove, cover them loosely and then tighten the covers in a bit and refrigerate them.

If you have grander plans to make true preserves, follow the directions on your canning apparatus for any marmalade.